There are two things one immediately notices about the churches in the predominantly
Roman Catholic island of St Lucia, they are large and they are always open. These churches
stand out, they make a statement; I am here for you.
St Peter's Roman Catholic Church dominates the village of Dennery on the east coast
of St Lucia. This small fishing village extends back from a deep protected bay with the
uninhabited Dennery island seeming to guard the entrance to the bay. The entire village
seems as if to flow outward from the church. The commercial life of the village revolves
around fishing and St. Peter is the patron saint of fishermen. The church, which was built
in the late 18th century, towers above the town. Located on the aptly named Church Street
on a slight rise facing the sea, the church is surrounded by the small houses and shops of
the village with its narrow one lane streets pressed against the sea. The white and rust
coloured church is the most imposing structure for miles around.
The St Joseph Roman Catholic Church in Gros Islet is also on the
aptly named Church Street in the sleepy village of Gros Islet which comes alive every
Friday night for its weekly street party. Construction of the church at Gros Islet was
started in 1850 and completed in 1876. Unfortunately in 1906, an earthquake completely
destroyed the building and in 1927, the present church was built on the site of the old
church. When you enter the church your eyes are drawn to the high vaulted ceiling and as
you focus you realise that the ceiling is composed of thin strips of wood that somehow
look like the underside of a ship. The dark wooden pews and light streaming through the
coloured panes of the windows give the interior of this church an extremely peaceful
feel.
The Catholic Church at Anse La Raye with its imposing front, large statue of
Jesus on the Cross at the front entrance, and statue of Mary over the entrance, also
dominates the village of Anse La Raye. Located on a bend of the road that runs along the
sea front, this church started as a wooden structure in 1762. The structure was destroyed
in a hurricane in 1780 and after being rebuilt was destroyed by fire. In 1907 construction
of the present church started with the villagers donating their labour and providing the
stone used. The interior of the church with its wooden pillars, dark wood ceiling and
mural on its center wall exudes a sense of calm. The beautiful stone altar was imported
from France and its white stone contrasts wonderfully with the dark wood. The outside of
the church boundary wall has a mural some 150ft long depicting scenes from village life
which was donated and painted by the St Omer family.
The most magnificent of St Lucia's churches is however the Cathedral of the
Immaculate Conception opposite the Derek Walcott Square in the capital Castries. As you
walk through the huge wooden doors, the dark wood pews and the overall atmosphere exudes
an air of tranquility. The magnificence of the overall space causes your eyes to be drawn
in various directions, from the paintings on the walls of the black saints done by a local
artist to the stained glass windows to the huge altar area where numerous prayer candles
are constantly lit. Flanking the altar and in the wings are various statues of Jesus, Mary
and the saints. As you walk through the Cathedral you notice the steel pillars with the
arches forming the frame of the building. Eventually your eyes are drawn to the high
vaulted ceiling which is composed of thin strips of wood and you realise that the entire
ceiling is a giant mural. Constructed in 1827, the Cathedral in Castries is open everyday
with people visiting to look or pray.
St Lucia's Pigeon Island is described as a national landmark and it is indeed a
treasure. Here in one space is history, relaxation, entertainment and outdoor activity.
Nowadays when one looks at Pigeon Island it can be puzzling as to why it is called Pigeon
Island because it does not appear to be an island. To understand the reason for the name
one must first know the history and it is that history that is part of the attraction of
Pigeon Island in St Lucia.
Pigeon Island was a 44 acre island with two hill tops that was occupied by the original
Amerindian inhabitants of St Lucia. In the 1600's a French pirate called Jambe de Bois
(Wooden Leg) forged an alliance with the Amerindians and used the island as his base. In
1778 however the British admiral George Rodney took over the island for use as a naval
base. He was particularly attracted by the fact that from these peaks he could spy on the
French on the neighboring island of Martinique. It was not until the 1970's that Pigeon
Island was joined to the mainland of the Gros Islet quarter through the construction of a
causeway.
Today Pigeon Island is a Park maintained by the St Lucia National Trust. Near the entrance
to the park is an Intreptretation Centre that explains the history and significance of the
overall site. Throughout are remnants of the naval base from the 1700's that was used by
the British and the French. There are trails throughout the grounds that lead to the
historical sites. Small reading plates explain the significance of each historical site.
The hike up to Fort Rodney and Signal Peak are a must for all visitors. The
trail to Fort Rodney is a steady uphill walk along a well worn path with the last leg
being paved with concrete and stone plus having a hand rail. Apart from the remnants of
the Fort, the hike rewards you with a magnificent view of Rodney Bay and Gros Islet. The
hike up Signal Peak is more difficult but the reward is a lovely view of Martinique.
While history may be the first reason for going to Pigeon Island, the overall ambiance
of the park is certainly another good reason to visit. The grounds are well endowed with
lofty trees, and manicured lawns plus picnic areas and even an area reserved for weddings.
The beauty of Pigeon Island is one of the reasons why the annual St Lucia Jazz Festival is
held at this location. There are two beautiful sandy beaches with the calm crystal clear
water for which St Lucia is famous. Snorkeling equipment and kayaks are available for
rental. Within the Park, on the edge of the sea is a small restaurant that takes its
name from the 17th century French pirate Jambe de Bois.
The Pigeon Island National Landmark is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and there is
a small admission fee.
If after visiting Pigeon Island you are still looking for an area to enjoy, just outside
the entrance to the park is a wide sandy beach area with whispering pines and a small
beach bar tucked inside the pines. Sitting on the verandah of the bar or on the picnic
benches outside you can while away the afternoon and watch the sunset over the bay.
Anse La Raye is a village on the west coast of St Lucia, just south of Castries, whose
name means Bay of the Rays. It is a small village that hugs the bay and is bisected by the
road that runs from Castries to Soufriere. It is a village of narrow streets with the
typical small wooden St Lucian houses that sit closely side by side with each other and
dominated by the large Catholic Church. Here fishing is
the primary means of income and the colorful small fishing boats bob gaily in the bay.
Every Friday night, the village of Anse La Raye comes alive with its Fish Feast and it is definitely one of the attractions of St Lucia.
Although called a Fish Feast or Fish Fry, this lively Friday night lime is a true sea food
fiesta with fish, lobster, soft shelled crabs, shrimp, squid, conch and other sea food on
sale. The activity takes place on Front Street that runs alongside the bay and wraps
around to the church. Here vendors set up their grills and cook. Tables and benches are
laid out along the side of the street, allowing you to wander past and inhale the aroma of
freshly cooked seafood while talking to the cooks and making your choice for dinner, then
easily having a seat to enjoy your purchase. Scattered among the cooks are small booths
selling alcohol and other drinks, while others set up tables offering souvenirs. From one
end of the street, the music from the DJ booms with a mixture of soca, calypso, zouk,
country and western, rhythm and blues and reggae while patrons dance and enjoy the night.
In a most unobtrusive manner the St Lucian police stroll through the festivities ensuring
that only merriment occurs during the night.
This is a true village activity with the residents sitting in small groups and chatting to
each other. In between the children run and play and laugh. On the side streets nearby,
bars are open so anytime you want to slip away from the heart of the action but still
remain in the vicinity to enjoy the beauty of the St Lucian night and the ambiance of the
village life, it is easy to do so. The Anse La Raye Fish Feast is definitely one of the places to visit, however be aware that St Lucia is a staunchly Catholic country so during
Lent, the Anse La Raye Fish Fry does not take place.
Gros Islet in St Lucia is famous for its Friday night where streets in this little
seaside village are closed and barbecue pits, roadside drinks vendors and music take over
the streets. Tourists and locals attend this weekly Friday night jump up that goes on
until the early morning hours. Gros Islet however has a very well kept secret; the main
street activity is not the only place for a good time on Friday night in Gros Islet.
Gros Islet with its beautiful
church, magnificent beach and small inns is a tourism hot spot but Gros Islet is also
a fishing village. There is a fishing depot with moorings for boats, fuel dispensers,
stalls for cleaning and selling fish and it is at this fishing depot that Gros Islet's
well kept secret can be discovered. Every Friday night delicious fish is slow grilled on
beds of charcoal and served with heaping quantities of white rice. Using half drums filled
with hot charcoal, freshly caught local fish is placed between wire mesh and grilled until
golden brown. When it is in season there is also lobster and conch.
Having a Friday night meal at this fishing depot is a delightful experience. Around the
grilling area are picnic tables and benches where you can sit in comfort and savor the
taste of the freshly grilled fish. As with all St Lucian night time activities if you want
a drink it is easily available right next to the grilling area. The location is perfect
for a night of relaxation, with a gentle breeze wafting across the compound and the
channel with boats moored plus moving through the channel it is a tropical paradise. As
the moon and stars light the grounds you are filled with the ambiance of the location
while calypso and French based music fills the air and the lilting sounds of French patois
is heard.
If later that night you want to join the more frenetic pace of the Friday night jump up,
it is a only a short walk of three blocks.
Cassava is extensively cultivated throughout the
Caribbean and South America (where it is called yuca or manioc) for its
edible root which has become a staple of the diet of many persons. In
addition to being eaten in its boiled form, cassava is also used as "fries"
instead of potato and used to make the dessert known as cassava pone. The
original Amerindian inhabitants of these islands grew cassava and boiled the
root as food but also grated and dried the root to create what is known as
farine that in turn is used to create a cassava bread. Today farine and
cassava bread are still made although in many islands it is rare as the
older inhabitants have died and the younger generation seem not willing to
undertake the work involved in its preparation.
While it may be more difficult to get some cassava products, in St Lucia
there is one place that is dedicated to "all things cassava" and is known as
Plas Kassav. This location has developed into a tourist attraction and is
the largest purchaser of cassava from local farmers in St Lucia. Plas Kassav
(Creole for Cassava Place) is a family run business that is located in Anse
La Verdure on the west coast, between the villages of Anse La Raye and
Canaries. The business is housed in a neat wooden structure that sits just
at the side of the main road (so impossible to miss). The building is both a
cafe and a factory. You can purchase a variety of cassava breads flavored
with coconut, cherry and raisin, apple and raisin, cinnamon, banana,
chocolate, ginger, peanut, pineapple and apricot. You can also have the
cassava as a sandwich with saltfish or smoked herring. In addition to
cassava products you can also find other food, drink and condiments made by
members of the wider community including dried bananas, honey, pepper sauces
and cassava flour.After tasting the delicious range of baked cassava
products if you want to see how they are made you can take the free guided
tour in the factory to see the traditional methods used and the big coppers
and ovens.
